AT Oban we put up again at the Craigard, decidedly a well-appointed
hotel in every respect, and started the next morning [or Skye by the
steamship "Glencoe," which leaves the pier at 7 a.m., Dur route for
the first part of the journey being the same as that to Tobermory.
For weeks we had anticipated Dur voyage to Skye, and consequently
were anxious about the weather; fortunately the sea was smooth.
and although the atmosphere was hazy, it showed promise of a
brilliant day.
After a hearty breakfast, which we partook of as soon as the boat left her
moorings, We clambered to the upper deck, and found that the " Glencoe" was
just passing Lismore Lighthouse, and was steaming amid mountain scenery of
the grandest description in Scotland. As the mist dispersed, a picture presented
itself to our view which we shall never forget. Whilst we gazed at the calm
sweet blue of the Sky out came the gun pouring down its golden light over the
scene, bringing out crag after crag in bold relief, and casting every kind of
fantastic shadow.
Leaving the Island of Mull, we soon found ourselves on the waters of the
Atlantic, and passing the Islands of Muck, Eigg, and Rum. As we approached
the Skye Coast, the Cuchullin Hills appeared to view; and then Dur course for a
brief time became less prosperous, in the share of a summer shower, which sent
everybody below; however, it lasted but half an hour, and by that time we were
nearing the Bay of Scavaig, into which Loch Coruisk discharges itself: It was
to visit this famous lake that our steamer had left its usual course, delaying the
journey to Portree same two hours.
On en tc ring Loch Scavaig, a scene of unexampled grandeur disclosed
itself, and from the rocky shore there suddenly appeared a couple of large boats,
manned by a sturdy set of Skyemen, dressed in handsome uniforms with Mr.
McBrayne's badge on their caps and jerseys, who toak us from the steamer to a
projecting rock, which formed a natural landing stage. A five minutes' climb
brought us to the margin of Coruisk, when a sight presented itself to our view
that we shall never forget, and whose awful grandeur it would be impossible
to describe.
It is a fresh-water take nearly two miles long, from the sides of which
rise naked and precipitous mountains, and [or sterile desolation no spot tn
Europe can compare with th is silent wilderness.
"A scene so wild, so rude as this,
Yet so sublime in barrenness,
Ne'er did my wandering footsteps press
"Where'er they happ'd to roam."
-Scott.
- Re-embarking on the "Glencoe," we continued our voyage, and after rounding
the point of Sleat we sailed along for many hours amid scenery which on either
side was as beautifully diversified as one could wish. With the exception of a
couple of showers, we had a magnificent sail, although the wind and tide were bath
against us, and somewhat impeded our progress; but this we did not mind, as
there was so much m the surroundings to delight the eye and occupy our attention.
We were much indebted to Captain Baxter for bis kind attention and interesting
descriptions of the scenery through which we passed. after leaving the Island
of Raasay, the steamer shot rapidly round a rocky point, and in a few minutes
we found ourselves in the harbour of Portree, and were scan landed on the quay.
A short walk up a steep hill overlooking the sea brought us to the Portree hotel,
kept by Mr. D. Mclnnes, to which we had been recommended by out friends.
Early the next morning we started on our journey of discovery, and during
the whole drive of nineteen miles from Portree to Carbost, we did not pass a
single village. It would be difficult to describe this romantic, wild and
mountainous island; the road for the first few miles being somewhat bleak, but
afterwards becoming more interesting. Unfortunately the rain came down in
torrents, and we had to don our waterproofs; when it ceased the Cuchullin
Mountains appeared to our view, and the sight of their grandeur cal led forth our
admiration, and fascinated us for the best part of our journey. This island is
famous for rainy days, even in summer, and from experience we must confess
that it comes down sometimes with a heaviness that washes away every particle
of dust from your clothes, and pierces your mackintosh like duck-shot through a
boat's sail.
The sun was shining again when we reached the Sligachan Hotel, and for
the rest of the day the weather was brilliant. We put up our horse, and after
resting him for an hour and fortifying ourselves with a substantial meal,
proceeded on our way. This hotel stands at the head of the loch from which it
takes it name, and is a favourite resort of tourists who wish to ascend the
Cuchullin Hills. The hotel is the starting point for climbing Scuir-nan-Gillean
the highest of the Cuchullin range, and is in the very midst of an assemblage of
mountains, red and grey, and all of them bare from base to summit.
On leaving Sligachan we ascended a hill, and the road thereafter lay through
a desolate valley of same six miles in extent, without any signs of habitation,
except one or two shepherd's huts and a small shooting lodge. Oor drive next
taok us round a considerable stretch of the noble Loch Harport, and views
alternately occurred of hill and sea, which strongly appealed to our imagination.
We had to ford two swift flowing streams. These rivulets after heavy rains
become mountain torrents, and are sometimes not fordable for days together.
At this point of the road we obtained a good view of the Distillery, about three
miles distant, and the country began to assume a more cultivated and cheerful
asptect ; we soon passed a church and several cottages after that, and for the
rest of the drive, everything looked more flourishing, and the fields exhibited fine
raps of potatoes and turnips.
The Talisker Distillery stands at the foot of a beautiful hill, in the centre
of the smiling village of Carbost, which, after the bare and rugged track we
had passed through, was an agreeable change, and seemed quite a lively
place. On the broad slopes of the hill, which were covered with crofters
holdings, husbandmen were busy tilling the soil ; whilst at the Distillery below
and the village which surrounds it, all was life and motion. Driving along we
were struck with the picturesque situation of the Distillery, which stands on
the very share of Loch Harport, one of the most beautiful sea-lochs on this side
of the island. To reach the works we crossed the bridge over the Carbost Burn
which supplies all the water used in the Distillery. This stream runs down th
face of Stockveil Hill, a gentle slope six to seven hundred feet high, and which
descends to the share of Loch Harport; and like the opposite hill is of a delicious
green, and quite refreshing after the barren mountains we had passed on our
war. But to return to the Carbost Burn; this rivulet, like all the others in the
Island, falls over a rocky bed and many small waterfalls before it reaches the
sea. About 100 yards above the Distillery it is tapped, and a " Lade" carried
therefrom along the Distillery property into the works, where it is used for
distilling purposes, and (or driving the machinery when steam power is not used.
The farm and house of Talisker, from which the Distillery takes its name, is
about six mil es distant, and is situated in the parish of Bracadale on the other
side of the hill.
The Distillery, which was erected in 1830, is beautifully situated, and covers
two and a half acres of ground. The old part of the work is built in the
farm of a quadrangle, but such important additions have been made to it from
time to time during the past nine years that the Distillery bas almost lost its
identity, and two-thirds of the whole property are of modern construction, and
contain all the newest appliances and vessels known in the art of distilling.
The new part consists of the Kiln, a Warehouse, Still House, and one of the
Granaries. The old part is the Mash House, Spirit Store, and two of the
Warehouses. Small steamers, or as they are here called "puffers," come up the
loch to within fifty yards of the Granaries. These bring the barley and stores
used in the works; and besides this, the cc Hebridean" from Glasgow, a deep
sea steamer, calls once a week. The barley is carted up to the Granaries from
the boats, which are accessible at low tide, and is lifted to the various floors by
old-fashioned hoists. Mr. Alexander Green, the Manager, received us, and
directed us over the establishment.
We were admitted through a covered gateway into the quadrangle, and
proceeded at once to the Granaries and Malt Barns, which are situated at the
right hand corner. They are two in number, and, like the rest of the buildings,
are constructed of stone.
One of them, the old building triangular in farm, is 100 feet long, 40 wide,
and two stories high, each floor being divided in the centre. No. 2 is a new
building, and is 126 feet long by 31 broad; the top floors on bath are used for
storing grain, and each possesses a Steep. That in the new Granary IS
constructed with cement, 6 feet wide and 4 feet deep, and will wet 400 bush els of
barley at one time.
The two Kilns adjoin each other, and are bath connected with the Maltings.
The old one is 24 feet by 20 feet; and the new alle, which is of handsome
elevation, is 28 feet by 25 feet. They are bath floored with wire cloth, and
heated by peat in open furnaces. The peats are brought from a moor about a
mile distant from the Distillery. .
We saw a number of hardy women busy digging and bringing home this fuel,
where they stacked it in an open shed, 104 feet long, roofed with corrugated Ir0.n.
But to return to the Kilns; bath of them communicate with the Malt Deposit,
which is one of the oldest buildings in the Distillery, and is connected with the
Mill building by a hopper, which is on the same level as the Malt floor.
The Mill underneath contains a pair of Malt-rollers and the usual grinding
machinery, driven by steam power. The pulverized malt is carried in sacks to
the Mash-tun, which vessel is placed in the next building, a little old-fashioned
place, now being newly roofed. This Tun is 14 feet in diameter and 5 feet deep,
containing the usual stirring rakes, which are driven by steam. From this dish
the Draff is shovelled out through an aperture in the wall to the Draff House
outside, and from thence it is carted away by the farmers.
The Underback is in the basement of the next building; and passing along
we noticed two timber Brewing Tanks, which supply hot water to the Mash-tun
just described.
Our guide now conducted us to the Tun Room, which forms the south
corner of the quadrangle, and adjoins the Mash House, wherein are six
Washbacks. Descending from the staging of this house, we noticed one of
Henderson's large-sized Refrigerators, and then passed through a doorway
into a passage, where are situated the Excise offices and the mashman's
rooms, bath reached by an outside stone staircase, which leads into the
court yard.
Passing these apartments we descended a ladder, and found ourselves in the
-Still House, which occupies the left hand side of the court, and races the
bridge over the Burn, which we crossed to reach the Distillery. The Still
House contains three Pot Stills; the Chargers, both of them timber vessels,
are placed on a platform, which runs across the Still House. There are
two Worm Tubs in connection with the Stills, bath of them red by
running water direct from the Burn. In the receiving room besides thc
Safe, there are three Receivers, a Low Wines 355 gallons, Feints 450
gallons, and Spirit 526 gallons. Retracing our steps we now came to the
Spirit Store, which opens into the public road and contains a Vat capable
of holding 1,766 gallons. On the opposite side of the war, facing the sea, are
two large newly built Warehouses, capable of holding 1,000 casks. There are
three other warehouses on the premises of a similar capacity. On the same
side of the road as the new Warehouses referred to there is a Manager's and
Clerk's office, also a neat Cooperage.
Inside the Distillery proper there is an Engine House, which contains a
splendid horizontal engine of ten-horse power; a steam boiler, 20 feet long and
6 m diameter, also various pumps and other appliances.
Part of the employés live in houses on the property and there is a fine
newly built house occupied by the manager. The Chief Excise Officer,
Mr. W. O. Brien, also lives In a neat house close by the Distillery
The make is Highland Malt, and the average annual output for the three
years ending April 1886, was a trifle over 40,000 gallons.
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On 01 April 2005, Guthrie McCrae added the next comment:
I would like to help correct an error on your map of Skye. The number 8 is recorded in the vicinity of the Talisker Distillery however when you trace #8, it refers to Littlemill Distillery, near Glasgow.
I think your site is great
Thank you
Guthrie
On 01 April 2005, Jeroen added the next comment:
On the map, it is number 48. Maybe the the 4 isnt really clear on the map, but I did not edit the map in any way other thern adding some color to it.
Thanks for the kind words on the site, I do my uttermost best to make it usefull to everyone, always nice to hear when someone tells me they like it :)