WE left Aberdeen at a very early hour on the morning of our visit to
the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, as the coach to Braemar leaves
Ballater on the arrival of the first train. The railway runs along
the valley of the Dee, or Deeside, as it is popll1arly designated, one
of the most celebrated tourist routes to Balmoral. On our war we
passed the Catholic College of Blair, about six miles from Aberdeen,
which contains the renowned portraits of Queen Mary and Cardinal
Beaton. after this the route becomes delightfully picturesque, and we pass
Drum Castle, the House of Durris, and many other notable and historic pla:ces.
At Banchory the Dee is joined by the Feugh, a dark and angry-looking stream
in the distance can be seen the hills among which its waters rise, and anon the
summits of Caer Loch, 1,890 feet, and Cloch-na-ben, I,()63 feet above sea level
the latter with a vast projecting hump, looking like a huge wart upon its brow.
On reaching Aboyne the rail runs due west on the property of the Marquis of
Huntly, and fine views of wide stretches of forest land, picturesquely broken
with rocks, are obtained. Passing through a tunnel, a more open range of
country opens out, the monotony of which is relieved by distant hills and the
fine background of Lochnagar mountain, the monarch of the district, bending in
a gracefully waving outline; it rises about 3,800 feet above sea level. Close by
is Ballatrich, the farmhouse where Byron, when about eight-years of age, stayed
after an attack of the scarlet fever. He bas 'described Lochnagar as one of
the most sublime and picturesque amongst our " Caledonian Alps " Its
appearance is of a dusky hue, but the summit is the seat of eternal snow. The
Impression made upon bis poetic mind by the lovely scenery of th is district is
shown In his lines to the mountain, the last stanza of which runs-
Years have roll'd on, Loch na Garr, since I left you,
Years must elapse ere I tread you again :
Nature of verdure and flow'rs has bereft you,
Vet still are you dearer than Albion's plain.
England! thy beauties are tame and domestic
To one who has roved o'er the mountains afar :
Oh for the crags that are wild and majcstic !
The steep frowning glories of dark Loch na Garr !
Again in " The Island," written a year or two before bis death, he breaks out in
poetic admiration of this Highland Monarch, and from the period of bis star in
e dIstrIct he dates bis love of mountainous countries, the glories and beauties
of which he describes in many a verse such as he alone could frame. The
ascent of Lochnagar can be made from Braemar, Crathie, or Ballater; from thc
latter place it is a little over twelve miles. Once at the top, the traveIler is
amply repaid for the toilsome ascent.
Upon arrival at Ballater, the first thing to be clone is to secure a scat on the
coach, and if the box scat can be obtained it is luckY, for the drive to Balmoral
from start to finish is superb, and upon a fine dar the scene presented to the ere
is one not easily forgotten. A short war before coming upon Her Majesty's
Highland home we obtained an excellent view of another and far more ancient
royal abode, namely, Abergeldie Castle. This picturesque old building, with
its quaint architecture, its turrets and bartizans, is situated quite close to the Dee
on the south side of the river, and is always viewed with interest. Abergeldie
has been in the possession of the Gordon family for at least four centuries, and
while, as mentioned, the scat is entitled to be called a royal residence, it does
not belong to the Crown, the Queen holding the castle only on lease, and
devoting it to the accommodation of distinguished visitors. Here it was that
the Duchess of Kent, mother of Her Majesty, used to reside, finding it a
charming summer home. Here also, during some past years, Eugenie, ex-Empress
of France, the lonely relict of the Third Napoleon, through the gracious
consideration of the Sovereign of England, found a fitting retreat when stricken
with the great sorrow of her widowhood, the lamented death in Zululand of her
beloved son, the Prince Imperial. Eugenie was the object of the deepest respect
in the upper strath of Dee, and wh n out driving never failed to acknowledge
from her carriage the lifted hat or bonnet of the hum blest wayfarer.
Abergeldie Castle is the residence of Their Royal Highnesses the Prince and
Princess of Wales when they par their autumn visit to the Aberdeenshire
highlands. As we approached Crathie the lovely vale of Balmoral lay
spread out before us, bordered all round with magnificent woods and al.most
encircled with majestic mountains; this lovely spot forms a picture said
to be unrivalled in Europe. Here is the chosen retreat from the cares of
state of our beloved Queen, and it would be difficult to find a more beautiful
spot. On one side a wooded haugh slopes gently down from Craig Gowan's
shaggy side to the margin of the river Dee, on the borders of which the noble
caste is built; on the other are ranged battlements of hills with glimpses of
magnificent scenery, while eastwards is to be seen the Rock of Oaks and the pine-
covered hills of Invercauld. As the ere returns to the point first noticed, it is
glad to rest on the soft foliage of the "birks of Craig Gowan," and one can full.Y
endorse Black's opinion that in all Scotland there is no region in which the
sublime and beautiful. are more harmoniousl.y blended. Bal.moral. is a fine
property, comprising upwards of ten thousand acres, more than a thousand of
which are under wood, and in addition there is a deer forest of upwards of thIrty
thousand acres.
Leaving the coach and bidding good-bye to its occupants, we crossed the
beautiful. suspension bridge which leads to the grand entrance to Balmoral, and
turning to the left begin the ascent of the steep hill which leads to the Royal.
Lochnagar Distillery. The road is beautifully wooded, and half way up we
pause to rest.
The Distillery was built in the year 1825 by one John Robertson of
Crathie, an old smuggler, and it came into the hands of Mr. John Begg In the
I year 1845. It is situated within a mile of Balmoral Castle, and the late
Mr. John Begg held a lease of the property under Her Majesty the Queen
there is no Distillery within fifty miles round, therefore its isolation ,g-ives it a
distinctive character. It was first visited by Her Majesty and His Royal
Highness the Prince Consort on the 12th September 1848, and by Their Royal
Highnesse3 the Prince and Princess of Wales on the 15th September 1863, and
we were informed that the Whisky made at the Distillery has been supplied to
the Royal Palaces and Court for the past thirty-six years.
At the decease of Mr. John Begg in the year 1882, the Distillery ca me info
the hands. of his son, Mr. Henry Farquharson Begg, the present proprietor. The
Distillery, with the farm attached thereto, covers one hundred and thirty
acres of ground, and lies at the foot of the mountain from which it takes its
name. The works consist of a series of oblong building-s, mostly detached, and
none of which are enclosed. At the back there is a fine reservoir, in which is
collected the water of a spring which, rising in the mountain, runs down its sides
in the farm of a burn, collecting numerous other little streams in its onward
progress over heather and peat mosses.
Our guide first conducted us to the Malt Barns, of which there are three,
triangular in share, and averaging from 60 to 90 feet in leng th by 30 to 40 feet
wide; they are two-deckers and together hold 2,700 quarters of barley. We then
crossed the war to the Malting House, a peculiar old building with stone Boor
peculiarly adapted for malting purposes; it is 105 feet long by 64 feet broad,
and possesses an ancient stone Steep capable of wetting thirty quarters of barley
at one time. Here also are two other Granaries of large dimensions, capable of
holding 3,000 quarters of barley. In conjunction with these buildings is one.of.
the quaintest Kilns we have seen, 30 feet square, floored with wire cloth and
heated with peats burned in open chauffeurs. The neighbouring moors supply
good peats, and we noticed a fine lofty shed filled with dry peats sufficient for
several years supply.
Leaving the open court we next came to the Distillery proper, which farms
the central building of the group, and first entered the Mill which contains
a pair of steel malt crushers. The Grist Loft is above, to reach which wc
ascended an outside ladder and found ourselves in a low pitched chamber, which
on account of its difficulty of approach would have made a good hiding place
in olden times; the grist is removed from this Boor by manual labour. Returning
to the main building we passed two huge Heating Tanks, and then
came to the Mash House, which farms a part of the upper Boor of the Still House,
and through which the Still Heads protrude to the Worms. The Mash Tun is
10 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep, and connected therewith is a Steel's
mashing Machine, and a set of revolving stirring rakes driven by a water-wheel.
The Underback is in close proximity and near the doorway at a lower elevation.
Over the roof of the Mashing Department are placed the Coolers 54 feet long
and 27 feet wide, up to which the worts are pumped from the Underback,
and they possess the old-fashioned fan arrangement driven by water power.
In the next building which is called the Tun Room, we observed five Washbacks,
each with a capacity of 800 gallons, and on a 10ft above is the Wash Charger,
a timber vessel holding 2,000 gallons. The Still House is a neat stone building
and contains two old "Pot Stills," the Wash Still holding 1,362 gallons,
and the Spirit Still 899 gallons. The Worm Tub connected with these vessels
is a square iron dish supplied with a constant stream of water from the
"Craignagall Dam" or Reservoir. At the end of the Still House are placed the
Low-wines and Feints Charger, Spirit Receivers and Safe. In close proximity
is a Spirit Store which adjoins the duty-paid racking store. Mr. Donald Stewart,
the Excise Officer, was introduced to us and conducted us to the two duty-free
Warehouses, where we tasted some remarkably fine old Whisky, and thus
refreshed completed our tour of inspection. We then visited the Distillery
and Excise Offices, the latter a rustic edifice, standing in the beautiful garden
attached to Mr. Begg's house. From thence we proceeded to the Brewer's
neat little residence, and afterwards inspected the cottages occupied by the
employés, of whom there are twenty. There is no steam power on the premises,
all the driving being clone by water-wheels.
In the adjacent farmsteading are a hundred head of fine cattle, which consume the draff and spent wash The farm lands
which stretch almost to Abergeldie, the house alread referred to, of His Royal
HiGhness the Prince of Wales, produce splendid barley and
other grain. The
Bonded Warehouses
at Lochnagar are
small, as the greater
part of the Whisky
manufactured there is
bond cd in the eight
Lochnagar Warehouses on the quay at
Aberdeen, where also
are handsome offices
and large Bottling
Stores. These buildings stand on the site
of the once well known "Cowie's .
Brewery ," and cost,
including excavations,
vaulting, &c., close
upon 8,000.
The Whisky which is pure land Malt is sold
principally in the United Kingdom, and the annual output in 1884-5 was
65,000 gallons.
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On 30 May 2007, Angie Wallberg added the next comment:
This was practically un-readable! Does no-one edit any more?
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