THE next afternoon we left Ardrishaig behind us and embarked on
board the " Linnet," as pretty and comfortable a boat as sails on any
canal in the kingdom. We steamed through the Crinan Canal, on
which there are fifteen locks, and a delightful time we had. There
were four of us, and how we all revelled in the glory of that summer
day's procession; now we would alight from the boat and walk into
the woods, or basten forward and refresh ourselves with milk and
wild strawberries, vended on the canal banks, or return to the boat to the next
lock and smoke a cigar. It was quite easy to keep pace with the steamer, and
most of our fellow passengers exercised themselves in this war.
After leaving the locks, the canal winds round the beautiful wooded ridge of
Knapdale, and we are in the land of spells and witchcraft. Here, thirty-four years
ago, the last known witch was burned. Start not, gentle reader, it was neither by
the law nor Judge Lynch she suffered. She was a masculine kind of old woman,
and said to have been tall and strong as most men. Sarah of the bog, as she was
cal led, was extensively engaged in smuggling, and unlike Meg Merrilies, she had
not borne twelve "buirdly sans and daughters," but had lived like Queen Bess-
"in maiden meditation fancy free." Ta cover up her illicit traffic, she practised
necromancy, and the inhabitants of "the district being very superstitious, propitiated
her good graces by providing peats, potatoes, and meal, and many
instances of the belief in her powers and the manner in which she levied her
contributions were related to us. But Sarah grew old, and having acquired the
taste for stimulants amid the exciting scenes of her youth, like Neil Gow, she
"Dearly Io'ed the whisky, oh,"
and regularly dosed herself with the contents of her whisky keg. One night she
drank too much, stumbled and fell into the fire, and when the house was next
visited, the miserable creature was found with her head black and burned to a
cinder.
At the next bend of the canal we came in sight of Kilmahumaig, or the
tomb of St. Omaig, a bold promontory; and for a moment only, the small
canon ic al mound cal led Dundonaid, where tradition saith, the Lords of the Isles
were wont to git, in their periodical visits to Knapdale, to deliver judgment
dinner-beli sent us all below to the dining saloon, where we found as sumptuous
a repast as could. be served at any hotel. When we reached the deck again the
steamer was pasSing through same of the most Interesting scenery on the route.
It was such a perfect day that we found it difficult to leave the deck, even when
pressed by our cheery companions Cruickshank and Cook, of Edinburgh, who
occasionally dived down to the saloon to ta~te the drink of their country.
We reached Oban at seven o'clock in the evening, taking the road up to our
hotel by a route which passed the Distillery we had come to visit. The
Craigard Hotel is pitched on the top of a rock, and the view therefrom is
signally fine. It commands a sort of bird's eye view of the town and bay,
and when we reached the terrace in front we stopped to gaze at the scene
below. On the water all was lire and gaiety as far as the eye could reach,
and innumerable boats were seen studding the surface of the sea, and vessels of
all descriptions and sizes from the light skiff to the biggest yacht; whilst the
streets and promenade were crowded with people and enlivened with music.
The next morning we descended the hill by a pathway through the grounds
of the hotel down to the sea, and from thence bent our steps to the Oban
Distillery.' It is a quaint old-fashioned work, and dates back prior to the
existence of the town, having been built in the year 1794- The establishment
~overs two acres of ground. and is entered from the main street by a pair of
timber gates. It was built by the family of Stevenson, the founders of the town
of Oban, which previous to their advent was only a small fishing village. The
Distillery consists of an oblong set of buildings, with three sectional annexes,
which have been added by the present proprietor. He bas also made vast
improvements in the machinery and appliances, and built two ncw bonded
Warehouses. We gained access to the establishment by an old-fash'ioned stair
thrown across the basement cutting, which leads from the road to the clerks'"
manager's, and Distillery offices. These are al! contiguous and mostly under one
roof, and were formerly the residence of the Stevensons; a part of the sitting
room was made to project over into the Still House, and we were shown the
" peep-hole" door through which the proprietor could watch the progress of the
work. We made the tour of inspection under the guidance of Mr. James Gordon,
This gentleman is a nephew of the late Mr. Smlth, of Cragganmore, and his
father was the pioneer of distilling in the north, serving at one time as brewer
and Distiller to as many as seven Distilleries in the G enlivet district, and taking
each in turn. The Oban work is quite enclosed, and built under a rock, which
rises 400 feet, and is festooned with creepers and ivy. The water supply is from
two lochs in Ardconnel, one mlle above Oban, the waters of which are collected
from the peaty uplands, and are reputed to be of splendid quality.
We first bent our steps to the outer court yard, on two sides of which, in the
form of a triangle, are the Granarles and Malt-barns. They are built with stone,
and being nearly a century old, have a very ancient appearance. An outside
stone staircase gives access to the two upper floors, which are used for storing the
barley, The ground floors are concreted, and each possesses a stone Step. At
the end of the building there is a Kiln, which is 30 feet square, and is floored
with wire cloth. It is heated with peats, enclosed In an old-fashioned brick
furnace. The sides of this enclosure are very spacious, and are used for storing
and drying the peat; there is besides on the hill, a large shed which contained
sufficient for two years' consumption. On a level with the floor of the Kiln and
communicating therewith is a Malt Deposit 50 feet long and 27 feet wide.
capable of storing 400 quarters of malt. At this place the raw material changes
its residence from one side of the quadrangle to the other, and a rustic timber
bridge bas been thrown across the war, over which the dried malt is wheeled to
the Mill building attached to the Brewing House. The latter is two stories high,
the basement containing the malt cylinders and mill machinery, driven by steam
The top flat is used as the Grist Loft, and contains a hopper, into which the
pulverized malt is tipped before passing through the Mashing-machine. We
next followed our guide through a narrow doorway, and found ourselves on a
platform overlooking the Mash House, whereon are placed two antiquated
timber Heating Coppers, holding together 2,000 gallons, and a sparger.
Descending to the floor, we are shown the Mash-tun, a peculiar little metal
vessel standing on the ground; it is 9 feet in diameter and 5 1/2 feet deep
containing the usual stirring gear driven by steam. Mr. Gordon here drew our
attention to a 10ft over head, where is placed the Worts Receiver, to which we
ascended and obtained a view of the Coolers; they consist of an open shallow
tank forming the inside roof of the Tun-room. From th is receptacle the worts
run by gravitation into the Washbacks. Descending a few steps, we then passed
through an archway direct into the Tun Room, a building by itself, hearing
indisputable marks of antiquity. It contains seven Washbacks, each holding
1,200 gallons. We next proceeded to the Still House, passing under a gallery
on which is placed the Wash Charger, which holds 1,200 gallons, and the Worm
Tub and Water supply, one cf them of singular construction and position. [t
consists of a narrow timber trough or tank high up in the air, stretching right across
thc yard, and contains an enclosed pipe, leading direct from the lade through
which runs a continuous stream to the worms, and passing out on the other side,
the water is utilized to turn the rummager of the Wash Still. We had seen the
Still House before from the distiller's parlour, but on entering it from the court,
and observing its walls and roof, it presented the appearance of a monastic
building. It contains two old Pot Stills, one a Wash Still holding 1,000 gallons,
the other a Spirit Still holding 500 gallons, bath heated by fire, and the rummagers
therein driven by water from the Worm Tub. There is a platform. runnIng
across the old building, on which are placed the Low-wines and Feints Charger
and Safe, and in the adjoining chamber are the Receivers. Following Dur guide,
we next entered the Spirit Store, which forms the basement of the offices, and
was formerly the distiller's kitchen. It contains a Spirit Vat of 1,200 gallon5
content, and the casking appliances. Opposite there is a small Cooperage an
cask shed; also a Io.horse power engine, which has been at work upward5 0
forty years, and shows no signs of decay; also a steam boiler, 14 feet lon
and 5 feet in diameter. Distributed about the premises are four warehouses ;
two of them are newly built, and although not of large dimensions, are.o
great height and solid construction. That most recently finished is three stories
high, and measures 60 feet by 30 feet, and will hold 60,000 gallons of Whisky.
Lower down the hill there is a second building, also of three stories, 78 feet by
30 feet. These new Warehouses are fitted up with fixed gauntrees on every
floor, the timber supports of which are most substantial, and run from th C
ground to the roof, so that they will bear any weight, and help to support ~ C
building; they are all arranged so that any cask can be removed without affecting
its neighbour. The whole of the Warehouses together will store 3,500 casks. d
The Whisky is not only pure Highland Malt, but a good self Whisky, an
the annual output is 35,000 gallons.
You think you have something to add to this article? You can do so by using this form below! Your comment will be added on the bottom of this page.
*) To prevent abuse by automated systems we have to include this extra security step. **) If you want to receive an email when a new comment is added, please include your email address here. Address will not be shown on this page or used for any other purposes.