ON the other side of the loch, and nearly opposite Bowmore, is Lochindaal,
and thither we first drove the next morning. It is six miles from the
hotel, and situated in the heart of what is called the " Garden of Islay.I
Our way lay through the village of Bridgend, which is planted at the
head of the loch and almost bidden by trees. The gardens of
every house and cottage are well cultivated, and such a profusion of
flowers we have never seen in any village in Scotland. The hawthorn,
laburnums, and roses, literally filled the air with their fragrance, and
the lawn-like meadows, the fresh green foliage of the beautiful trees, and the
dog-roses in the hedges all reminded us of. old England. As we crossed the
ancient stone bridge we had a peep through the trees of a long stretch of the
river wooded to its waters edge, where several of Dur companions at the hotel
were busy fishing, and who supplied Dur table with some fine trout, the result of
their day's sport. We next passed Islay House, which stands in an extensive
park surrounded by fir plantations. Thousands of rhododendrons adorn this park
massed together in deep rich colours or planted in patches and groups on the
fringe of the woods. after paSsing Islay House the road skirted the loch for
the rest of the journey. Lochindaal is really an arm of the sea, expanding into
the Bay of Laggan, and terminating at the Point of Rhynns on t4e west, and
th.e Maol-na-Ho on the east, where it forms the capacious Bay of Laggan. The
cliffs on the Maol-na-Ho rise to a great height, and in one of them is a large cave
called Sloc Mhaol Doraidh, of historical and smuggling fame, many a good cask
of WhISky having been removed therefrom to the coasting ships. The nefarious
and immoral trade of illicit distillation used to be carried on allover the island
to a very great extent, and Whisky making was formerly, as now, the staple
commodity of Islay. The steady and persistent discountenance which the illicit
traffic received fro~ the proprietors of the. island in the early part of the present
century, and the introduction of legal Distilleries, has well nigh put an end to
smuggling. Along the route our driver pointed out several abandoned haunts of
the smugglers.
As we drove along, the sea was smooth and calm as an in land lake. but here
after a gale the Atlantic waves break in most magnificent array, and it is a sight
never to be forgotten. We next passed Bruichladdich Distillery, which lies on
the side of the road. Two miles further on we reached Port Charlotte, a village
of little importance and interest except for the large Distillery owned by
Mr. Sheriff, Which employs a number of the labouring class, and gives soma
little life to the locality. At the back of the Distillery the ground rises into hills.
near the top of which are two beautiful lochs, the Garroch and Octomore,
from whence the water supply to the Distillery is obtained. The works, which
were built early in the century, cover about two acres of ground, and although
old fashioned are very compact and conveniently arranged for the operations of
the Distillery. We entered by a gateway which faces the sea; on the right are
small offices and a residence for the Brewer, on the left the spacious Granaries
and Malt Barns, and in the front the Distillery proper. The Kiln is floored with
German wire cloth, the first we have seen in the island, and we were informed
that it is very expensive. Peat only is used in drying the malt, fired in
open chauffeurs. The old Mash-house, which is kept very clean and is white-
washed, contains a circular Mash Tun, the Underback, and two heating Coppers.
In the Tun-room there are eight Washbacks, with an average capacity of 10,000
gallons each. The Still-house, which is a neat building, well lighted, contains
three old Pot Stills, and the usual Receivers and Chargers. On the opposite side of
the road, on the sea share, are several large bonded Warehouses, capable of holding
5,000 casks. The Whisky is pure Islay Malt, and part of it is shipped from
Bruichladdich pier, the remainder floated out to the ships, ten casks being lashed
together by iron ping and a chain called II clogs," and towed out by boatmen.
Mr. Miller is the general manager. the output in 1884-5 was 127,068 bulk gallons.
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