FROM Tarbert we reached Jura by Mr. MacBrayne's steamer " Fingal, "
which leaves the mails every Monday. The route was for the most
part the same as that traversed on our journey to Islay. The name
of Jura recalls to our memories just such a lovely day as when,
standing on the' pier at Caol Ila, we first saw the island across the
Islay Sound. The appearance of Jura from this position is very
romantic, the mountains rising precipitately from the sea, same of them to
the height of 2,500 feet above sea level. Three of these monster rocks are
called " Paps of Jura," so named from their peculiar share. Upon these majestic
heights no trees strike root, and here and there beetling crags project, with no
shadow to break their terrible ruggedness, whilst at their base are everywhere
strewn gigantic boulders. The principal denizens of these weird rocks are eagles,
red deer, and grouse. The Island of Jura is thirty miles long and seven broad,
and contains a population of nearly a thousand persons. Its bays possess all
the charms of Oban in miniature, and the mountain lochs team with trout.
Craighouse, where the Distillery is planted, is on the eastern or habitable
side of the island, and is the only place that can be cal led a village. It
stands at the head of a small bay, and boasts of a handsome pier, which
was erected by Messrs. James Ferguson & Sons. On landing we immediately
proceeded to the Distillery, accompanied by Mr. Fraser, the
courteous manager, who had met us at the boat. As there were yet several
hours before sunset we took the opportunity of exploring the surroundings of
the Distillery, and visited the Craig bum and waterfall. Then, at the suggestion
of Mr. Fraser, we directed our steps to the th ree lochs, or watersheds, which feed
the magnificent bum flowing past the Distillery. We ascended the hill at the
back. and found a path which fan along the banks of the hum, and although
up h.111 and down dale, it proved a very pleasant ramble. The burn danced
merrily over its rocky bed, making innumerable falls and cascades, and we were
struck with the brightness and purity of the water. after an hour's toilsome
ascent we reached the largest of the lochs, situated about th ree miles from the
Distillery, and a magnificent view presented itself when we reached these heights.
Looking above and below the scene embraced extremes of fertility and desola-
tion: above, sterile rocks, over which clouds and mist hung which were sometimes
lifted, and revealed tremendous masses of rock projecting from the lofty mountain
above; below, well cultivated crofters' holdings and the rich verdure of the lower
stretches of the mountain were revealed. Returning by another way we passed
the two smaller lochs already referred to, abounding in trout preserved by
the proprietors of the Distillery. It was now evening, but we were nearly
home, and out path, if not welt lighted was beautified by the soft light
of the setting gun. On Teaching the house which Mr. Ferguson had cour-
teously placed at our disposal during our visit to the island, we found a meal
ready, to which, after the long walk, we brought a good appetite. In Jura the
inhabitants are beyond the reach of anything but dairy produce, potatoes and
fish; occasionally a mountain sheep is kilted and divided among the community,
but, as a rule, it is a question of a daily forage for a day's supply of food. We
were, however, quite content with the repast provided. Rising early the next
morning we proceeded to inspect the establishment. It is one of the handsomest
we have seen, and from the bay looks more like a caste than a Distillery. It is
the highest building on the island, and the most elevated portion farms the
summer residence of the proprietors.
The works cover nearly three acres of ground, and are situated close to the
pier, and a beautifully wooded glen. The Distilling and Mashing House consist
of a lofty and solid stone block of buildings, which are visible for many miles
round, and attached thereto are the old Maltings and Warehouses, which are
built round a court yard. The new Maltings are pitched higher up the slopes of
the hill, but nevertheless they communicate wit4 the other parts of the works.
There is no steam engine on the premises, all the work being clone by water and
gravitation. The works are entirely enclosed by the buildings, and entrance
thereto is obtained through a gateway facing the sea. The Distillery, which was
established in the year 1810, came into the hands of Messrs. James Ferguson and
Sans in the year 1875, who immediately set about its restoration, and have added
new buildings, machinery, and appliances of the most modem description, at a
cast of over 1;25,000; the establishment is now said to be one of the easiest
worked Distilleries in the district.
The buildings have a frontage to the sea of same 500 feet, and are arranged
in several sections, the central and lofty building al ready referred to being the
Distillery proper. We first visited the No. 1 Maltings at the top of the hill, a
granite structure consisting of three floors 138 feet long and 48 feet broad, the
top floor of which is used for storing barley, and wilt hold 4,000 quarters. The
middle floor, for malting, is paved with tiles, and the metal Steep connected
therewith is placed on the upper floor, and wets 140 quarters at one time,
discharging its contents from the bottom; the lower floor is a Warehouse. At
the north end there is a Kiln 48 feet square, floored with steel wire netting-
Hermann's patent. It is lighted by six windows, possesses four patent ventilators,
and bas two entrances enclosed by double iron doors.
Passing on to the adjoining chamber, we found ourselves in the Malt
Deposit, the top floor of a wing of the central and main building, an apartment
120 feet long, and so arranged that it is commanded by bath Kilns. The Mill
and Mash House are underneath. We next descended to the ground floor, and
crossed a terrace to the No. 2 Maltings lower down; they are of the same
dimensions as the new Maltings al ready described, and originally formed part of
the old Distillery. There is also another Malting of smaller dimensions, with a
Warehouse below.
We were next taken to the Mill, which contains a pair of Malt Crushers, a?d
from thence to the Grist Loft, in which there are two large Grist Hoppers, Which
reed the Mash-tun. Still descending, we then passed on to the Brewing House,
a neat building 35 feet long bY 25 feet broad, which contains a metal Mash-tun
20 feet in diameter by 5 feet deep, with stirring gear driven by the water-wheel
here also we observed two Heating Tanks, holding together 3,000 gallons, which
supply hot water to a Mashing-machine, which mixes the grist before it reaches
the Mashtun. From the Tun the worts are pumped to a Receiver or Underback
in the Tun Room, holding 8,000 gallons, .and afterwards pass through the two
Morton's Refrigerators fixed on a staging above, cal led the Cooler House. We
should here add that the sparge and draff are pumped up to a second Mash-tun,
where they are drained off .into two Heating Tanks. to be mix~d with the next
grist. The Tun room, which farms part of the Still House, is at the eastern
end and is one of the loftiest houses we have yet seen; it is 6o feet high, 100
long, and 44 broad, and lighted by twelve windows. Therein are four Washbacks,
each holding 13,000 gallons, and a Wash Charger of the same capacity, the
latter so placed that it commands the Stills. Our attention was then directed to
the three Pot Stills-one of them, a Wash Still, contains 6,650 gallons; the
other two, which are Spirit Stills, hold 2,350 and 1,200 gallons respectively. On
a second gallery we observed the Spirit Receiver, a handsome vessel holding
5,000 gallons, and the Lowwines and Feints Charger, holding 6,?34 gallons, and
the Safe. The wheel which drIves the Still rummagers is 18 Inches wide and
12 feet in diameter, and is placed below the Worm Tubs. The two latter
vessels arc elevated on brick piers 40 feet from the ground, and are supplied with
water direct from the stream. Leaving the larger building, we turned to the
left, and reached the Spirit Store, a new cement building 50 feet square, which
contains a Vat holding 673 gallons, and the weighing apparatus, and afterwards
inspected the four Warehouses, wherein the Whisky is stored. . One of them is
165 feet by 150 feet broad, and the whole together will store 5,500 casks. At
the time of our visit they held 3,504 casks, containing 232,000 gallons of Whisky
of various ages. The Boiler House is contiguous to the Distilling House, and
contains a steam boiler, 22 feet long and 5 feet in diameter, for heating water
there is only one pump on the premises. The Turbine water-wheel was erected
by Messrs. Smith & Co., of Glasgow; it is of simple construction, and yet
wonderful power, and capable of flooding the whole place in ten minutes. It is
sunk just opposite an excavation in the hum called the smuggler's hole, lately
filled up, the entrance to which is now covered with ferns. It is the very place
where the smuggling founder of the Distillery, a century ago, for many years
carried on bis operations without discovery; and the tiny stream, tapped from
the hum which ran through the centre of the cave, had to be stopped up by the
present owners, when the hole was filled up. Opposite there is a fine Cooperage
and carpenter's shop, also a cask shed. The manager, Mr. William Fraser,
resides on the premises, and Mr. John Mulqueen, the Excise officer, dwells in a
house built on the water's edge. The workmen's houses farm the street of the
village, and they have small plots of ground allotted to them by the Distillers,
which are splendidly cultivated. The small farm attached to the Distillery is
only twenty acres, but quite sufficient for the requirements of the fine cart horses
and few beasts kept by the proprietors.
The Whisky is pure Highland Malt, and the annual output in 1884-85 was
60,339 gallons, 1885-86 65,000 gallons, but the works are capable of making
180,000 gallons.
We had just finished our tour of inspection when the steamer hove in sight.
Mr. Macbrayne having permitted the captain to call for us. Bidding good-bye
to our friends, we left Jura with regret, cherishing in our hearts the hope that we
might return at some future day.
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