WE started off for Inchgower on a bright summer morning with an
Italian sky over our heads. All along the route, noble woods
crept up and covered the lofty hills.. Hedges, rejoicing in a
wealth of foliage and blossom, divided the cultivated lands, and
in the valley below, numerous water courses sparkled in the gun
light. When we reached Fochabers Station we found our
carriage awaiting the arrival of the train, so off we started under
a broiling gun. The heat was so intense that the cottagers remained in
the shadow of their homes and the husbandmen sought the shadiest places
in which to rest Driving along we soon reached same thick plan ta ti ons and
came to a rippling hum, murmuring among the young fir trees, whilst bel ow,
the valley o! the Spey lay mapped out at our feet, and the river, now a roaring
stream, winding through the wooded hills and rocky cuttings, rolled in furious
baste to reach the sea. Immediately in front of us stretched out for miles in all
their glory and beauty the densely wooded policies of Gordon Castle, and behind
us rose Benaigen and the rugged and massive hills of Benrinnes. We were now
in the midst of scenes which no pen could justly describe or pencil delineate,
but which have left traces on our memories never to be forgotten. after crossing
the new bridge over the Spey, which bas replaced the old alle, washed away in
the floods of 1829, we reached the beautiful and picturesque village of Fochabers,
environed by the deer park and woods of Gordon Castle. Leaving the grateful
shade of the lofty trees, which for a mile or two overhang the road, a wider
range of country opened before us. Cultivated fields clothed the slopes of
the hills which reached the roadside, and a glorious and expansive view of the
sea and the hills of Sutherlandshire across the Moray Firth, was obtained.
Proceeding along we passed broad acres of goldening grain, studded over with
gaudy corn flowers and ornamented with lines of beautiful trees. Here and there
were patches of wild flowers, growing in the, rose-covered hedges, the yellow,
blue and white cups of these humble blossoms upturned to the gun. As we
rattled along through this rich and fertile country, we now and then caught sight
of a village or hamlet and presently, on our left, the famous Bin Hill of Cullen,
same miles distant, standing out in bold relief from a background of blue sky.
At the next turn of the road the Distillery came into view and the Letter Burn,
which runs through the meadow land of the plain and past Inchgower. As we
drive along our coachman points out a farmhouse on the high ground, opposite
the Distillery, where lived McPherson, a noted smuggler, who for many years
evaded the law, but was at last captured with several kegs of whisky in his
possession, which he was carrying in his cart, concealed in trusses of straw, to
the sea-shore. He was heavily fined and m default of payment imprisoned.
The fine would have been remitted had he revealed to the judge the Still from
whence it was procured. As a matter of fact it was the product of an illicit Still
at Aultmoor Glen, at the back of the Bin Hill, a regular smuggler's haunt, and
these men used the same water as that now in use at the Distillery.
The Still waS worked in a cavity in the hill side, the entrance to which was
covered up with turf and heather, and might be passed a hundred times and yet
never be seen. It was an accident which disclosed the secret. Some Highland
cattle were being driven home, when one of them strayed from the track and
putting its root in a hole displaced a large piece of turf, disclosing to the eyes of
the farmer, who was up to every dodge of the smugglers, McPherson's well-kept
secret and the means of securing the offered reward. On reaching home he
communicated with the revenue officers, who proceeded to the place, dismantled
the Still and vessels, broke up the Worm, and brought away several kegs of
whisky. McPherson and bis associates, having heard of their approach, took to
their boats and escaped.
Our carriage then diverged from the public way down a private road which
led to Inchgower. after passing the picturesque house on the left, occupied by
the Brewer and manager, and the eight model workmen's cottages, designed and
built by Mr. Wûson, we drove through a pair of timber gates direct into the
large quadrangle, where we were received by Mr. Wilson, to whom we made
known the object of our visit.
The Distillery, which lies in the parish of Rathven, four miles from Gordon
Caste and five from Fochabers, is of handsome elevation, and the buildings,
which are of stone, and slated, are erected in the farm of an oblong quadrangle,
and cover nearly four acres of
ground. It bas a frontage of
454 feet to the highway, and 500
feet to the sea, the ends being 145
reel The original business was
established at the Tochieneal
Distillery, in the year 1822, by
Alexander W 1lson, the granduncle of the present proprietor,
who there carried on most successfully the manufacture of the
Whisky for which bis name is famous.
In the year 1871 the present
handsome Distillery, Inchgower,
was built, and the business of
Tochieneal removed there. It is
a modern work, and is fitted up
with all the latest improvements
of machinery and vessels. Inchgower is situated in the heart of
the fin est barley-growing district
in Scotland, and the water supply
Iis from the Letter Burn, which
runs from the uplands over huge
peat mosses and flows past the
Distillery into the sea, and also
superior quality.
The manager, Mr. John Gallow, escorted us round the work and explained
the various operations. We commenced at the Maltings, two-storied buildings,
which form the right side of the quadrangle. They are 400 feet long and 26 feet
wide, with open roofs, and lighted by forty-five windows. The top floor is the
Granary and will hold 3,000 quarters of barley. Following our guide we next
inspected the Malting Floors underneath, which are in three divisions, Nos. I
and 2,100 feet long, have each a stone Steep wetting 30 quarters of barley.at
one time, and No. 3,150 feet long, wetting 45 quarters. Crossing to the opposite
side of the quadrangle we came to the Kiln, a tower-like structure, 50 feet high,
to the floor of which the malt is gent by elevators driven by steam-power. Peat
is the only fuel used in the open furnaces for drying the malt, and the floor above
is laid with metal plates. The dried malt is conveyed from the Kiln floor, through
a sluice, into the Malt Deposits adjoining, one of the most convenient places for
the purpose we have as yet seen. It is divided or binned off into six compartments
for convenience sake, also to keep the malt dry and clean; very little light
is allowed to penetrate, and the air is excluded as much as possible. These
compartments hold together upwards of 6,000 bushels of malt, and there is a
Feeding Hopper, in the centre of the floor, for the Mill below. Continuing our
progress through the Mill building, which contained a pair of malt rollers and
grinding machines we came to the Grist Loft, a neat little chamber, where the
pulverized malt is stored ready for use, and when required is projected by a
screw to the Hopper over the Mash-tun.
We next inspected the Engine-house which co11tain~ a lo-horse power engine,
which does all the work of the Distillery, also a steam boiler, 18 feet long by 5 feet
in diameter, and a centrifugal and other pumps. The two chimney-stacks are
60 feet and 50 feet high, respectively. Ascending same stone steps, from the
court yard, we entered a noble building which farms the Mash House, Tun Room,
and Still House. The section devoted to mashing is 65 feet long and 24 feet
broad; the two metal brewing tanks, heated by steam, hold 2,500 gallons, and
are built into a recess, underneath which is the Draff House. In the building
there is a Steel's Mashing Machine and a metal Mash-tun I I l feet in diameter
and 5 feet deep, with the usual draining plates and stirring gear enclosed.
Underneath the Tun is placed the Underback, fromw hich vessel the worts are
pumped up to the Coolers, forming the roof of the Tun Room, and possess a
double set of old-fashioned fans. Passing through an archway we next came to
the Tun Room division, which contains six Washbacks, two holding 4,500 gallons
and four 2,500 gallons each. From these fermenting Tuns the wash is pumped
up to the Wash Charger placed on a platform over the Stills. Returning once
more to the quadrangle we entered by a stone porch into the Distilling division.
b is part of .the house has a lofty and church-like appearance. It is 60 feet long
and l4 feet wide, lighted by stained windows, quite a suitable habitation for the
perfection of the barley into a perfect spirit. Here we were shown two Old Pot
Stills, consisting of a Wash Still, holding 2,900 gallons, and a Spirit Still r,700
gallons. A small water-wheel, driven by the waste from the Worm Tub, drives
the Still chains.
In the front of these vessels there is space sufficient to seat a small congregation
of spectators to witness the progress of the work and spiritual miss ion
carried on within its boundaries. Against the wall, at the end of the building,
there is placed a grandfather's clock, a relic of the old Tochieneal Distillery,
which keeps time better than any other clock on the premises. On the, floor at
the opposite end of the Still House are placed a Low-wines and Feints Receiver,
holding 2,200 gallons, a Spirit Receiver, 1,500 gallons, and a Spirit Safe. For
cleanliness and neatness this Distillery will vie with any of the modem
Distilleries of the north.
We next bent our steps to the Worm Tub, a deep concrete vessel, 40 feet
square, supplied with water from the Letter Bum, and afterwards to the Spirit
Store, which contains a vat holding 2,500 gallons, and the usual weighing and
casking apparatus. In a line with this building there is a Cooperage and
Carpenter's Shop, quite a department in themselves, containing a steam saw and
other machinery and appliances. All the Washbacks and timber vessels were
made on the premises by skilled workmen. Continuing our inspection, we
visited the Smithy, a little work of itself; the smith with brawny arms was there,
but the chestnut tree was wanting. At the western end of the quadrangle there
is, besides the duty-pald Racking Store and Inland Revenue Offices, a Cask She
and the public offices of the Distillery. Opposite the Still house are the Bonded
Warehouses, forming a range of buildings, 100 feet long by 80 feet broad, divided
into three sections and holding 2,000 casks. At the back of the Distillery we
noticed two large peat sheds, each containing about 400 loads of peat, also
capital cart-sheds and fine stabling premises for six horses.
Connected with the Distillery there is a farm of 200 acres, and a model
farm-steading arranged on new sanitary principles. Upwards of 100 head of
black-polled cattle, nearly 200 sheep, and a quantity of pigs, all bred on the
farm, are fed with the burnt ale and draff, conveyed by gravitation from the
Distillery to the farm buildings. We noticed that most of the workmen were
middle-aged or elderly, and of a superior class, and were informed that most
of them came from the Old Distillery, and had been with the firm all their lives.
Mr. J. Bayley is the principal Excise Officer, and there are upwards of 20 persons
employed on the premises. The make, which is pure Highland Malt, is a single
as well as a blending Whisky, and is gold principally in England and exported
to the Colonies. It is considered clean and mellow to the palate and much
appreciated by connoisseurs. The annual output is 62,000 gallons, the bulk of
which is generally sold before it is manufactured. After fulfilling our duties at
the Works we accepted Mr. Wilson's invitation to dinner. His house is a charming
country retreat, embosomed in trees and surrounded by lawns and gardens. We
thoroughly enjoyed the Highland hospitality, and we would gladly have accepted
bis pressing invitation to stay a night; but alas, business and duty called us to
the South, and we, who would fain have lingered many a dar, parted from our
host with regret, only to wish that another opportunity might be afforded us of
renewing these enjoyments.
When we returned the sun was lingering among the hills, and the hum of
the insects, together with the chirping of crickets, made pleasant companionship
during our homeward journey to Fochabers.
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