HOW pleasant is the process of exploration when performed in fine
weather and in company with good companions. Our long day
commenced with a stroll through the beautiful grounds of the Hotel
and a climb up the steep hill in its rear. The haymakers were just
commencing their work, and the air was laden with all the perfumes
of early summer. It was a delicious morning, and as the light
mists rolled away we could look out over the beautiful sea, from which
the eye wandered to the gently undulating foreground, where patches
of glittering green, and clumps of crimson rhododendrons guide the eye along the
beautiful policies of Islay House. We felt that we could not leave the spot, but a
signal from our coachman below compelled us to descend quickly, and mount the
trim dog-cart for our drive of ten miles to Caol Ila. Away we go at a fine pace
through the crisp air and glorious sunshine. The route lay through scenery
of the most varied de script ion; now we passed flourishing farmsteads and
highly cultivated fields, then through tiny little villages nestling peacefully on
the hillsides, while anon we catch glimpses from the hills, of lake and woodland.
Ever sin ce our residence upon the island we had been longing for a nearer view
of the famous " Paps of Jura," and here they appeared before us, seeming to
rise straight out of the sea, their base washed by the waters of the sound, which,
looking so beautiful and yet so treacherous, rush between the two islands
with a frightful rapidity. The Paps are generally enveloped in mist, but on this
day their tops we re se en distinctly, so bare, simple, and yet grand, in the clear
atmosphere.
On reaching Port Askaig we
diverged from the highway into a mountain
road. Here the driver
directed our attention
to an object about
two miles away, which
looked like a stump of
a tree on a rock but
which he assured us
was Caol Ila. On near
acquaintance we discovered th is to be the
top of .th~ chimney of
the Distillery. After crossing a stream the
route became more
interesting ; for miles
nothing met the eye but rolling hill slopes bare of bush or shrub, indented
at a lower level with the loveliest little farmsteads, each surrounded with
: few trees, all looking inexpressibly homey and fertile, and then bursts
upon our view an infinite expanse of sea With Colonsay. and other islands
in the far distance. We soon came in sight of the the distillery lying directly
beneath us, and we wonder for a moment how we are to get down to it Our
driver however, knew the road well, for of ten had he been here before, and
turning sharp to the right, we commenced the descent through a little hamlet
of houses. But the war is so steep, and our nerves none of the best, that we
insist upon doing the remainder of the des.cent on. root, much to the disgust
of the driver, who muttered strange words in Gaelic. His remarks, however,
are lost upon us, that language not having formed part of our education. As
we descended the hill we paused now and then to gaze upon the far-stretching
view before us, and to rest Presently we found ourselves at the object of
our search, and within a few yards of the sea. Caol Ila Distillery stands in
the wildest and most picturesque locality we have seen. It is situated on the
Sound of Islay, on the very verge of the sea, in a deep recess of the mountain,
mostly cut out of the solid rock. The coast hereabouts is wild and broken,
and detached pieces of rock lie here and there of such size that they farm
small islands.
Messrs. Bulloch, Lade & Co. have built a fine pier at which vessels can
load or unload at any state of the tide, and besides the chartered vessels
arriving with barley, &c., there are two of David MacBrayne's steamers calling
here twice a week for Whisky. The buildings connected with the works are of
solid construction and handsome appearance; they are all built of stone, hewn
from the adjacent rocks.
The Distillery was built in the year 1846, and subsequently much extended
and improved, and is arranged in the most modern style and possesses all the
newest appliances used in the art of distilling. We had a letter of introduction
to the manager, and were shown over the place by the brewer, whose
explanations were most interesting. We were first conducted to the spacious
Barns which are in close proximity to the landing stage. The barley is delivered
on to the floors by means of a patent hydraulic hoist The Barns are 120 feet
long by 80 feet wide, the two lowest floors of which are used for malting
purpose.s, and the two upper floors for storage of barley. Two cisterns are
placed in the upper stories, of a steeping capacity of over 1,100 bushels; only
the finest barley is used. There are two Kilns, one of which is about fifty
feet square, and the other thirty-five feet, floored with hair-cloth, and the
malt is dried with peat alone. Adjoining the Kilns, to the south of the
premises, are three dried malt storage rooms, covering an area of 360 square
yards. The Millroom is placed about the centre of the buildings on the
ground floor, and contains a pair of friction rollers. after the malt is ground it is
conveyed by means of elevators to the Grist Rooms above. These rooms have a
storage accommodation for over 1,600 bushels of grist The Mash-house and
Still-house are combined and adjoin the Mill-room; it farms a very large
square-built.building: which is beautifully kept and well lighted, and contains two
brightly polished Stills and Spirit Safe, Spirits, Low-wines and Feints Receivers,
Coppers for heating water, and Wash Charger. The Mash Tun is placed at one
end of the building, over which is fixed a Patent Mashing Machine in which the
grist and hot water mix together before reaching the Mash Tun, where it is again
broken up and mixed afresh by the patent revolving metal rakes. The MashTun
is of a mashing capacity of 500 bushels. The Underback is a large cast-iron
vessel of al most equal size. A patent centrifugal pump connects this vessel
and conveys the worts to the Wort Receiver situated in the Tun Room, which
we next visited. This is a beautiful room and contains quite an array of Wash
Backs, and a Patent Refrigerator. The Worm Tub adjoins the Still House and Î
is a huge wood en vessel containing an endless variety of copper warms, supplied
with cold water from the mountain stream. The Draff House faces the Sound of
Islay, in close proximity to the wharf where the draff is stored previous to
shipment. On the opposite side of the yard stands the Spirit Store, wherein are
two huge Vats for collecting the Whisky previous to its being filled into casks.
Our guide next directed us to the Duty Free Warehouses of which there are
three, capable of holding nearly 2,000 casks.
The water used, said to be the finest in Islay, comes in the farm of a
crystal stream from a lovely lake called Torrabus, nestling among the mountains,
over Which ever and anon the fragrant breeze from the myrtle and blooming
heather is wafted. This lake yields a never failing supply of this most essential
factor in Distillation. We need not describe the suitable Cooperage and artisan
shops, which are all perfect. The engine and steam boiler powers are highly
efficient, and are evidently planned with a view to future extension. Comfortable
dwellings have been provided for the employés, forming quite a little village in
themselves, and we envied the healthy life of these men and their families.
The annual output is over 147,000 gallons, and the Whisky is gold in
Scotland, England and the chief foreign markets, where the make speaks
for itself. We understand that such is the demand for this favourite Whisky,
that the orders much exceed the output, and have to be allocated amongst buyers
at the commencement of each Distilling season.
There is a complete system of Hydrants with sets of hose and reel at all
commanding points of the buildings. The Counting Houses farm an imposing
edifice fronting the Sound of Islay, the ground floor of which is occupied by the
Inland Revenue officers, and the upper portion by the Manager and.a staff of
clerks. The Head Office of this Distillery is at 4, Bothwell Street, Glasgow,
where all business is transacted.
We now bid farewell to this charming spot boring that same future day will
bring us an opportunity of a revisit to Caol Ila.
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On 08 January 2006, Dino DiLeventi added the next comment:
Could you please tell me where I could find "Caol Ila 18" in the New York City? Many thanks - Dino
On 09 January 2006, Jeroen Kloppenburg added the next comment:
How can we tell you? If you live in NY, I would suggest you check out some liquor shops for yourself if they have this expression ...
Unless there is someone reading this article that lives in NY as well and knows, you probably are best of checking yourself ;)