WE found the coach drive from Port Ellen to Bowmore one of the
most uninteresting that we had ever experienced. During the
journey of four hours we saw but two or th ree habitations, and
scarcely any trees; in all our wanderings we have never travelled
by such a dismal and lonely road. Fortunately we were a large
party and a merry alle, or we should have wearied of this dismal
track long before we reached our destination. Sandy, our aged
coachman, was a character, and drove us at about the rate of four miles an hour.
We continually remonstrated with him, but to no purpose, and plied him with
nips of Whisky to induce him to urge bis steeds along, but no persuasions
would induce him to trot bis horses, except at those parts of the road where they
were accustomed to increase their speed. Same of us walked many a mile, and
were yet able to keep ahead of him.
Within a very short distance of our journey's end a most agreeable and
surprising change came over the scene, and we found ourselves driving
beneath trees whose thick branches met overhead, and passing through the well-
cultivated policies and rural retreats, which farm the aristocratic village of
Bridgend. Presently the coach pulled up in front of a picturesque hotel
rejoicing in the name of "Beul-an-ath," the best and only one of any importance
in Islay, possessing gardens and grounds of most enchanting loveliness. Thc
hotel was pretty full, but we were able to secure a comfortable bed, and made
this place our headquarters for many days.
On the following morning having arranged with our host to provide us with
a carriage during our star, we drove to the Distillery which heads this chapter.
A Journey of three miles along the sandy share of Lochindaal brought us to
Bowmore, the capital of Islay, a town containing 800 inhabitants, and built on
the face of a hill, at the top of which stands the parish church, a circular white-
washed building with a spire.
The Bowmore Distillery covers nearly four acres of ground, and is built on a
shelf of the sea coast; the buildings are somewhat scattered, but all enclosed,
and entrance is gained thereto through a gateway, from the high road, on the
slopes of the hill. This establishment is said to be ODe of the oldest in the Island,
having been founded early in the century by the Simsans, from whose hands it
passed nearly fifty years ago to the father and uncle of the present proprietors,
who carried on the business most successfully. At the time of their occupation,
Bowmore was the only Distillery which was feued, the others being held on a
tenancy and it was not until several yeats afterwards that the other Distilleries
in Islay became feus. At one time the old firm held the Jura Distillery, and for
many years were very successful therewith, but the distance from the island,
and the difficulty in reaching it !n winter time, together with their own increasing
business induced them to give rt up and confine their attention solely to Bowmore.
The father of the present members of the firm was a scientific farmer,
and along with bis brother introduced many improvements in the mode of
farming and modern implements used in husbandry. He grew the first crop of
clover bin the island, and was a noted cultivator of wheat and barley. As a
landlord and neighbour, a benefactor to the poor and philanthropist, he was
much beloved, and won the esteem of all classes. We were told a story of this
gentleman, which betrays a marked characteristic of the Islay-men: When
Mr. Mutter first came to the island, he was invited to dinner with Captain
Walter Campbell. When the meal was over, the gallant Captain proceeded to
give Mr. Mutter advice, and amongst other things warned him as a stranger not
to accept a present from any of bis neighbours; "for if they send you a lamb they
will expect a cow in return, therefore always refuse the gift, or pay for it."
In the year 1880 the Distillery came into the possession of their descendants,
James and William Mutter, who have since then made great improvements and
alterations in the works. It is a noticeable fact that all the Distilleries in Islay
are built on the seaboard. The distillers gay that proximity to the sea favours
the various processes of malting, brewing, and distilling. Bowmore Distillery
is supplied with an unlimited quantity of splendid water from the Laggan, the
best and largest river in the Island, and is favourably situated for the disposal
and sale of the draff and pot ale, both most useful for cattle feeding, and a perfect
boon in winter when fodder is scarce.
In the absence of the resident partner we were received by the manager,
who conducted us over the premises, and first led the way to the Granaries
and Maltings, which are placed on the lower slopes of the hill. No. I
Barley Loft was the first we entered, which is 65 feet long and 18 feet brood
holding 514 quarters. It occupies one end of a large square stone building, and
underneath is a large Malting Floormeasuring6otfeetlong by 58t feet broad ; at
the end built partly in a recess there is a Steep constructed with cement, 18 feet
long, 10 broad and 4 feet deep, capable of wetting 420 bushels at one time, or an
average quantity of 78 quarters per week. We next passed up some steps into
the No. I Kiln, 65 feet long by 22t feet broad, which is used for drying the Malt
made of both Nos. land 2 Malt floors. In this Kiln, which will dry 500 bushels
at one time, we noticed that the old style of drying the malt is carried out, the
floor being of hair cloth, and the malt dried from underneath by peats in four
open Iron chauffeurs placed in the Killogie, as the firing room is called.
descending by a flight of steps we came to the Deposit Room, a triangular
shaped apartment, containing 392 quarters of malt.
At one end of this large chamber is the No. 2 Barley Loft and Malting, the
former being 39 1/2 feet long by 2ot feet broad, and holding 230 quarters of barley
the latter 94 1/2 feet by 19 feet, and possessing a Steep, 18 1/2 feet long, 7 1/2 feet broad,
and 3 1/2 feet deep, capable of wtting 320 bushels at one time, or an average of
310 quarters per week. Crossing the way we came to a long range of buildings
also devoted to the storage of corn and malting purposes, having the No. 2 Kiln
at the north end; the Kiln is 41 feet long and 24 1/2 feet broad-capable of drying
400 bushels at one time. Both Kilns possess the Louvre Ventilators, and are
similarly arranged to those already described. The No. 3 Barley-lort is 100 feet
long and 24i feet broad, and will hold 1,184 quarters. Nos. 3 and 4 Malt floors
are underneath. No. 3 is 100 feet long and 24 feet wide, and No. 4 is 94 feet
long by 24i feet wide, and bas a Steep 23 1/2 feet long, 5 1/2 feet broad, and 3
feet deep, at its southern end capable of wetting 300 bushels at one time, or an
average quantity of 56 quarters per week, and is 50 placed that it also serves the
No. 3 floor. Following our guide we next visited No. 5 Malting, the floor of
which is 104 feet long and 48 feet broad, over which is the No. 4 Barley 10ft,
which holds 2,630 quarters, and possesses a Steep 38 1/2 feet long, which will wet
504 bushels at one time, or 93 quarters per week. There are three Malt Deposit
rooms, all of which communicate with the Kilns, and are contiguous to the Mill,
to which we now repaired, wherein is placed the grinding machinery manufactured
by J. Copeland & Co.,of Glasgow, and a pair of malt rollers driven by steam
power, capable of grinding 360 bushels of malt per hour, or 2,500 bushels a dar.
The ground malt is conveyed by elevators to the Grist-loft, so as to be ready for
the next stage-namely, mashing. Ascending a staircase we found ourselves in the
Grist-loft, 32 feet long, 27 feet broad, capable of holding 325 quarters of ground
malt in bags. At the southern end of this range of buildings there are three
hot-water coppers, holding together 8,767 gallons, all heated by fire, no steam
being allowed into them either by coils or any other way. The boiling water
from these vessels is conveyed to the Mashing-machine and Mash-tun through
copper pipes. The manager-informed us that with the exception of the
Mash-tun, Worts Receiver, and the two pumps in the Mash House, every pipe
and vessel in connection with the making of the Whisky is of copper or wood.
Leaving this department, we crossed to the east side and entered the
Mash House, a building 48 feet long by 35 feet wide, which contains a Mash-
tun 17 feet in diameter by 6 feet deep, and said to be the largest in Islay,
having a capacity or 1,050 bushels, or 8,487 gallons. The Grist-10ft and
Hopper is over this vessel, and on the floor above is fixed one of Miller's copper
mashing machines, described elsewhere. The Draff is thrown out by hand
through two apertures in the wall, and raIls through a shoot direct, into the
Draff House, which can hold 3,000 bushels. The Underback, which is below
the floor, is 15 feet long, 12 feet broad, and 4 1/2 feet deep, holding 5,083 gallons.
Alongside the Mash-tun we noticed one of Jeffries' Patent Centrifugal Pumps,
which can throw 9,000 gallons an hour, used for pumping the sparges to the
Coppers, and worts up to the Worts Receiver. There is also one of McPherson
and Waddell's Wash Pumps. These powerful machines are capable of throwing
10,000 gallons an hour with only 64 revolutions per minute, while the centrifugal
requires 960 revolutions a minute. Near to these pumps is a fine engine of
11-horse power, and in a room by itself a steam boiler 18 feet long and 4i feet in
diameter.
We next proceeded to the U nderback Room which is at the northem end
of the Mash House, and contains an Underback holding 5,083 gallons, which
receives the worts from the Tun, and is also used for sparges, which are pumped
from this dish to the Worts Receiver and Coppers. Through this room we
passed into the new Tun Room, a lofty apartment facing the sea, 36 1/2 feet long by
20 feet broad, in which are placed three Washbacks or Tuns, holding respectively
10,364, 10,389, and 10,340 gallons; mounting the platform which runs from end
to end of this building, our guide directed our steps to the old Tun Room, 57
feet long by 17 1/2 feet broad, on the same level, which contains six other Washbacks
holding respectively 6,101, 5,973, 6,108, 6,171, 5,996, and 6,006 gallons; all the
Backs are connected by copper pipes with the Worts Receiver, and are switched
by hand. The refrigerators next claimed our attention, they are both by
John Milier & Co., of Glasgow, and each of them is 14 feet long by 6 feet wide,
capable of together cooling 6,000 gallons per hour. From the old Tun Room
we entered the Still House, a light and roomy building, 64t feet long by 40
feet broad, which contains five Copper Stills, a Wash Charger, holding 7,897
gallons; also ä Low-wines Charger, Low-wines ReceiV:e;r, Low-wines. and
Spirit Pump, etc. The contents of the three Wash Stills are respectlvely
2077, 2,200, and 2,400 gallons, and their charges, or working capacity, are
1'749, 1,978, and 1,863 gallons, and the Wash Charger which commands
these Stills with a dip of 72-illf inches, holds 7,897 gallons. There are two
Low-wines or Spirit Stills, holding respectively 1,400 and 1,210 gallons, and their
actual working capacity is 1,053 and 923 gallons. The Low-wines Charger clips
46l:'1r inches, and is of 1,232 gallons content, and Low-wines and Feints Receiver
clips 47-f1r inches of 2,477 gallons contents. All the Stills are heated by fire and
of a shape which the firm will not allow any deviation from, one of the Low-
wines Stills having a double head and two worms, so far as we have seen, being
quite unique in this respect. The Wash Still chains ,are driven by a small over-
shot water wheel; these chains are made of brass or gun metal being a pattern
of chain found in an old Still, demolished in the Brackla Distillery some years
ago, by Mr. MacDougal, of John Miller & Co. In the outer courtyard, placed
on solid masonry at high elevation, are three Worm-tubs. The largest is 12 3/4
feet deep by 12 feet in diameter, and contains ten turns of Wash Still Worm, and
nine of No. I Low-wines Still; next to it is a new Worm-rob, oblong in share,
17 1/4 feet long, 7 1/4 feet wide and 8 feet deep, having five double lengths and two
single of copper worms, with flanges of gun metal adjoining this is a small
Worm-tub, 6 1/4 feet in diameter at top, wider at bottom, and 10 feet deep, having
thirteen coils of copper worm from the No. 1 Low-wines Still.
Standing against the walls of the Still House are two Copper Condensers,
the Wash Still Condenser is 12 1/2 feet high and contains 121 copper tubes; that
for the Low-wines is of the same height, but bas only 91 tubes. These
Condensers were the first in use in Islay, but when water is scarce they require
more attention than the Worm-tubs. We next entered a long passage which
leads to the Mash House, off which is the Spirit Receiver Room, 18 1/2 feet long
by 10 1/2 feet broad, the Receiver placed therein is a timber vessel, having a dip of
60 inches, and contents 1,865 gallons. It possesses an indicator attached to
the charging and discharging pipes, which permits of continuous working, as
without this the fires would have to be drawn from the Stills until pumping was
finished. We then retraced Dur steps to the outer court to reach the Spirit
Store, it is nearly 62 feet long by 10 feet wide, and contains a Spirit Vat holding
2,354 gallons, and the casking and weighing apparatus.
Underneath the north end of the aid Maltings is the Cooperage consisting
of two vaults, brick arched, each 40 feet long by 10 feet broad ; they were formerly
the original and only Warehouses of Bowmore Distillery. Following our guide
we next visited the bonded Warehouses; No. I consists of two flats each
measuring I 121 feet by 48 feet; the ground flat is cut out of the solid rock,
and they are both dry and well ventilated. No. 2 is situated at the western end
of the Kiln next the sea, and is 106 feet long by 2 I feet broad; it contained 150
puncheons and 200 hogsheads, equal to about 33,500 gallons.
The firm have also very extensive warehouse accommodation In the arches
under the Central Station in Glasgow. As we passed along to the offices we
observed an immense peat stack containing 1,200 loads, and a shed holding
1,000 tons of coal, both ready for winters use. Lying at anchor, was the
5.5. "James Mutter," 145 tons, the property of the firm, used for the conveyance
of Whisky to Glasgow; and for general traffic.
The water used at Bowmore Distillery comes from the Laggan River, and is
conducted by a lade or water course nine miles in length, said to be the longest
to any Distillery in Scotland, though, as the crow flies, the distance is not more
than five miles, but the engineering difficulties met with were so great, owing to
want of fall, that a very tortuous course had to be made. The Barley used is
shipped from Inverness and Moray-shires.
The Whisky is pure Islay Malt, and the annual output is 200,000 gallons.
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