WE left Elgin by the night train for Keith, where we found excellent
quarters at the Gordon Arms, one of those rare old-fashioned
hostelries, which are fast passing away. Mr. Barclay, the jolly
landlord, received us on our arrival, and made us exceedingly
comfortable, during our fortnight's sojourn at bis house. The next
morning we again centered the train, this time bound for beautiful
Craigellachie. From Keith the track strikes off abruptly to the
left, alongside the river Isla, into a picturesque country of woods and stream,
where the undulations of the ground have necessitated short tunnels and deep
cuttings. We had here at intervals such pictures of rocky ridges, wooded
plantatlons, miniature waterfalls, river and mountain, that it all seemed like
magic, and when we finally emerged from the last intersection, suddenly found
ourselves at our destination. Craigellachie is a good hiring station, and it is
well for travellers to know th is, otherwise they may have to retrace their steps
for many a long mile before they can procure a horse and vehicle; so few
of these railway stations in the Highlands possess hiring accommodation. On
our arrival we secured a stout horse and trap from Charlie Stuart, the proprietor
of the hiring establishment, who personally coached us to Aberlour. It was a
lovely dar, and we started of[ in high spirits. after passing through the village
of Craigellachie, we came in sight of the magnificent iron bridge, which crosses
the Spey, near its junction with the Fiddich River. The bridge springs from
a rock on the western side of the Spey, and is of 100 feet span. The road
of access to the bridge is most picturesque, being cut out of the face of the
solid rock, amid scattered firs of the impending mountain. For two miles
the four se of the river is very beautiful, and in some parts the road overhangs
the boiling stream. We were quite sorry to diverge from this path, but we
had come to our journey's end, for on our left, hidden among the trees, lay
the Distillery, the object of our visit. Aberlour is a charming village, at the
root of Benrinnes. This grand mountain is 2,765 feet above the level of the sea,
and from its summit ten counties, from Caithness to Perth, are visible. On
the east shoulder there is a spring, which develops into a small pond, and near
it, we were shown a cave which James an Tuam, or ; ames of the Hill, a noted
freebooter, made one of bis coverts. The water from this receptacle runs down
the mountain side, and, before Teaching Aberlour, farms a beautiful cascade,
called the Lynn of Ruthrie. It bas a fall of 30 feet, broken in its descent by a
projecting rock, and is received into a gloomy pool below. Above the fall the
rocks are covered with trees, which reverberate the sound of the water, and
greatly contribute to the interest of the scene. The Bum from the pool is now
cal led the Lour, and runs rapidly to the Spey. The Spey is, in volume of water
and extent of basin drained by it, the second river in Scotland. It rises in
Badenoch, about six miles from Loch Laggan, and flows for about 100 miles.
I after flowing for about a mile from the source it expands into Loch Spey, after
leaving which it flows eastward to the sea, receiving in its progress the Marky,
the Calder, and a number of smaller streams. It takes rank, as a salmon river,
next to the Tay and the Tweed.
The Aberlour--Glenlivet Distillery, distant about a quarter of a mile below
the waterfall, is built on the banks of the Lour, about 300 yards from its
confluence with the noble river Spey, which here rushes northwards to the
Moray Firth, and a like distance from the Aberlour Station of the Great North
of Scotland Railway. The work. a perfect model Distillery, was rebuilt in the
year 1880, and covers two acres of ground. It consists of a triangular block
of stone buildings, of neat appearance, and conveniently arranged for the various
processes of distillation. Our .gu!de, Mr. R. Gauld, the Brewer, first took us to
the Malt Barn, a handsome building, 121 feet long and 40 feet deep, at the end
which are two concrete Steeps, capable of wetting 70 quarters of Barley at
One time. Ascending a stone stair we came to two Grain Lofts, one above the
other, capable of holding together 3,000 quarters of barley. At the angle of this
building is the Kiln, measuring 25 feet square and floored with wire cloth. It
is heated by peat in open chauffeurs. A doorway from the floor of this building
lead us down 10 feet to the Malt Deposit, bel ow which, at a depth of 13 feet, is
the Mill Room, containing a pair of Malt Rollers, driven by water. This apartment
is 30 feet square and 13 feet high. The malt is passed to the Mill through
a batch in the floor, to a hopper over th~ cylinders, which pulverize the malt.
After being ground, the grist passes into another hopper over the Mash Tun in
the room below.
The Mash and Still Houses are about 50 feet long by 30 feet broad, and
contain an iron Mash-tun, 12 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep, possessing the
usual stirring gear. On passing through the hopper referred to, the ground
malt raIls into the Steel's Mashing Machine, which mixes it thoroughly with
the hot water before it raIls into the Tun below. The wash is cooled by being
pumped up through a pipe 200 feet long, which is immersed in the Worm
Tank, which is the only Cooler. We then ascended a staircase to a lofty apartment,
called the Tun Room, over the Mash House, where the floor is concretcd,
and which contains five Washbacks, each holding 4,000 gallons. The liquid,
after fermentation, runs by gravitation into the Wash Charger and from it to the
Wash Still, which has a capacity of 1,600 gallons, thence into the Low-wines and
Feints receiver, from whence the immature spirit runs by gravitation into the
Spirit Still, holding 1,200 gallons, and after that process it runs as a pure spirit
through the Safe into the Spirit Receiver. All these latter vessels are in the
upper flat of the Still House, and both Stills are of the old Pot kind.
The plan of the cooling is novel. The Worm Tank is formed of concrete,
50 feet long by 6 feet wide and 3 feet deep, divided by a partition along the
centre, a continuous body of water capable of, and used for, turning two wheels,
rushes along the one side and back the other, over the worms, proving the
simplest and most effectual condensing method we have met with.
The lower flat of the Still House is sunk 10 feet on the side opposite the
Copper and Stills, so that the coals are emptied from the cart through a shoot
and landed beside the furnaces without any further labour; here there is
accommodation for holding 50 tong of coal.
The next compartment is the Spirit Store, where there is a Vat containing
1,750 gallons, which receives the spirit from the Stills. Here the Whisky is
casked, branded, and gent into the Bonded Warehouses, two in number, roofed
with corrugated iron, and built with stone. One of these Warehouses is of th ree
spang, each 40 feet wide and 100 feet long. The other is a two-decker, 80 feet
by 40 feet, and there were 2,000 casks of Whisky of various ages stored in these
Warehouses.
There is no steam power in this Distillery, the continuous flow of water being
sufficient to drive all the machinery, which includes grinding, mashing, elevating,
steering, and pumping. Several industries are carried on. We visited one or
two of them, notably the Cooperage and Cask Sheds, spacious buildings, neatly
arranged and possessing the necessary appliances for sweetening and repairing.
Adjoining is the carpenter shop and smithy, and across the yard the stables and
cart sheds. Near the entrance there is a small office for the Distiller, and another
for the Excise. The Manager resides in a neat house adjoining the barns.
The Whisky is pure Highland Malt, and the annual output is 80,000 gallons,
which is sold principally in England and Scotland.
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